Usenet 1993 July/InfoMagic USENET CD-ROM July 1993.ISO/answers/bicycles-faq/part1

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From: [e-mail] (Mike Iglesias)
Subject: Rec.Bicycles Frequently Asked Questions Posting  Part 1/4
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Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part1

Last modified:  June 14, 1993


Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting Information

The following monthly posting contains the answers to frequently asked
questions posed to rec.bicycles and interesting information that cyclists
might find useful.  Some of the answers are from postings to rec.bicycles,
and and some are condensed from postings.  Answers include the name and
email address of the author.  If no author is listed, I'm the guilty party.
If you're the author and I've misspelled your name or have the wrong email
address, let me know and I'll fix it.

If you have something you feel should be included in the FAQ, please write
it up and send it to me at the address below.

Note: I don't read each and every posting to rec.bicycles.*, so suggesting
that something be included in the FAQ may not be seen.  If you want
something included, summarize the discussion and send me the summary.

This FAQ is posted to rec.bicycles.misc, news.answers, and rec.answers
around the 15th of the month.  It is also available via anonymous ftp from:

   draco.acs.uci.edu   /pub/rec.bicycles/faq.*
   rtfm.mit.edu        /pub/usenet/rec.bicycles.misc

Check the "Archives" section for information on how to obtain the FAQ via
email.


Mike Iglesias
[e-mail]

===========================================================================

Quick Index:
(* means section hasn't been written yet.  ! means updated since last
FAQ.  + means new section.)

Administrivia
  Abbreviations
! Archives
  Posting Guidelines
  Electronic Mailing Lists

Rides
  Maps
  Touring supplies
+ Taking a bike on Amtrak

Racing
  Tour de France Jerseys
! Major Tour Winners  1947-1993
  Rating Tour de France climbs

Social
  Bicycling in America

Marketplace
  Bike Trailers
  One Less Car T-Shirts
  Panniers and Racks
  Clothing
  Seats
  Women's Saddles
  Women's Bikes
! Bike Rentals
  Bike Lockers
  Bike Computer Features
  Recumbent Bike Info
  More Recumbent Bike Info
  Buying a Bike

Tech
  Ball Bearing Grades
  SIS Cables
  Milk Jug Mud Flaps
  Lubrication
  Wear and Gear Slipping
  Adjusting Chain Length
  Hyperglide Chains
  Bottom Bracket Info
  Crank Noise
  Cracking/Breaking Cranks
  Biopace Chainrings
  Snakebite flats
  Blown Tube
  Mounting Tires
  More Flats on Rear Tires
! What holds the rim off the ground?
  Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
  Reusing Spokes
  Clinchers vs. Tubulars
! Presta Valve Nuts
  Ideal Tire Sizes
  Center Pivot vs. Dual Pivot brakes
  Indexed Steering
  Seat adjustments
  Cleat adjustments
  SIS derailleur adjustments
  Where to buy tools
  Workstands
  Frame stiffness comparison
  Frame materials
  Bike pulls to one side
  Frame repair
  Frame Fatigue
  Weight = Speed?

Misc
  Books and Magazines
! Mail Order Addresses
  Technical Support Numbers
  Road Gradient Units
  Helmets
  Terminology
  Avoiding Dogs
  Shaving Your Legs
  Contact Lenses and Cycling
  How to deal with your clothes
  Pete's Winter Cycling Tips
  Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips
  Studded Tires
  Cycling Myths
  Descending I
  Descending II
  Trackstands
  Front Brake Usage
  Slope Wind, the invisible enemy
  Reflective Tape
  Nutrition Primer
  Nuclear Free Energy Bar recipe
  Powerbars
  Calories burned by cycling
  Road rash
  Knee problems

===========================================================================
Administrivia
===========================================================================

Abbreviations

Some common abbreviations used here and in rec.bicycles.*:

  FAQ  Frequenly Asked Question.  What you are reading now is a file
       containing answers to some FAQs.

  IMHO  In my humble opinion.

  TIOOYK  There Is Only One You Know.  Refers to the Tour de France.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Archives

I've made available via anonymous ftp a copy of the current FAQ and a
few other items on draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12).  This is the
workstation on my desk, so I'd appreciate it if people would restrict
their use to 7pm-7am Pacific time.  The files are in pub/rec.bicycles.

For those without Internet access, you can use the ftpmail server at
gatekeeper.dec.com to get copies of the items there.  I really don't
have time to email copies of files to people who can't get at them
easily.  To use the FTP server, send an email message containing the
line

help

in the body of the message to [e-mail].  You'll get
a help file back from the FTP server with more information on how to
use it.

                README for Rec.Bicycles Anonymous FTP area

arnie.light    Arnie Berger's ([e-mail]) "Ultimate bike light"

bike.lockers    David H. Wolfskill's ([e-mail]) summary of
        bike locker vendors.

bike.painting   Sam Henry's ([e-mail]) collection of articles on
        how to paint a bike.

bike_power.*    Ken Roberts program to calculate power output and power
        consumption.  See bike_power.doc for more info.

biking_log.*    Phil Etheridge's ([e-mail]) hypercard stack
        riding diary.  It keeps track of dates, distance, time,
        average speed, etc., and keeps running weekly, monthly,
        and yearly totals.  See biking_log.read_me for more
                information.

bmb.ride    Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) report on her 1992
        Boston-Montreal-Boston ride.

competitive.nutrition
        Roger Marquis' ([e-mail]) article from the
        Feb 91 Velo News on nutrition and cycling.

faq.*        The current Frequently Asked Questions posting

first.century    Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) tips on training
        for your first century ride.

lights        Tom Reingold's ([e-mail]) collection of
        articles on bike lights.

lights2        More articles from rec.bicycles.* on lights.

mtb.buy        Joakim Karlsson's ([e-mail]) article on
        buying an entry-level MTB.

pbp.info    Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) information
        on her Paris-Brest-Paris ride.

pictures    Bicycling gif pictures.

prof.sched    Roland Stahl's ([e-mail]) list of
        scheduled professional races in many countries.

ride.index    Chris Hull's/Bill Bushnell's ([e-mail])
        explanation of a way to "index" rides and compare the
        difficulty of different rides.

spike.bike    Bob Fishell's ([e-mail]) Spike Bike series.
        They are numbered in the order that Bob posted them to
        rec.bicycles.  All the Spike Bike stories are
        "Copyright 1989 by Robert Fishell, all rights reserved."

spokelen11.bas    Roger Marquis' ([e-mail]) spoke length
        calculator, written in Microsoft Quickbasic.

spokelen.c    Andy Tucker's ([e-mail]) port of
        Roger Marquis' spokelen11.bas to C.

spokelen.hqx    [e-mail]'s Hypercard stack that computes
        spoke lengths.

studded.tires    Nancy Piltch's ([e-mail]) compilation
        of messages on studded tires, including how to make your
        own.

tandem.boxes    Arnie Berger's ([e-mail]) notes on how
        he built a box to transport his tandem to Europe and
        back.  It's taken from a longer travelogue on his trip - if
        you want more information, contact him at the above
        address.

tech.supp.phone Joshua Putnam's ([e-mail]) list of technical
        support numbers for various manufacturers.  This list
        used to be in the FAQ but now is too long to include there.

trailers    A summary posting of messages about bike trailers.  Good
        stuff if you're thinking of buying a trailer.

wheels.*.hqx    R. Scott Truesdell's ([e-mail]) Hypercard
        stack to calculate spoke lengths.  See wheels.readme
        for more info.

wintertips    Pete Hickey's ([e-mail]) notes about
        how to cycle in the winter.

wintertips.pam  Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) winter cycling tips.


Files available via anonymous ftp from ugle.unit.no (129.241.1.97)
in the directory local/biking. This directory is maintained by Joern
Dahl-Stamnes ([e-mail]).

Last updated: 8. Mars 1993

File       Date   What
---------------------------------------------------------------------
READ.ME    920921 Information about the other files in the directory.

bm104.zip  930308 The latest version of Bike Manager.

                  Bike Manager is a shareware program that help you keep a
                  log of your training activities. It can report summary
                  reports, weekly reports, monthly reports and yearly
                  reports. Features to analyze your activities against
                  your goals. And more...

brake.doc  920504 About how to make your own brake booster.

gtos91.doc 920707 A story from The Great Trial of Strength 1991.

gtos92.doc 920707 Ditto, but for the 1992 trial.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Posting Guidelines

The rec.bicycles subgroups are described below - please try to post your
article to the appropriate group.  The newsgroups were designed to minimize
cross posting, so please take the time to think about the most appropriate
newsgroup and post your article there.

rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and
   services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy
   them, and evaluations of these sources.  Not for discussion of general
   engineering, maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance
   and repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment.  Not for products or
   services offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace.

rec.bicycles.rides: Discussions of tours and training or commuting routes.
   Not for disussion of general riding techniques -- see rec.bicycles.misc.

rec.bicycles.soc: Social issues, cycling transportation advocacy, laws,
   conduct of riders and drivers; road hazards such as potholes, dogs, and
   sociopaths.

rec.bicycles.racing: Race results, racing techniques, rules, and
   organizations.  Not racing equipment -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace
   or rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.misc:  General riding techniques, rider physiology,
   injuries and treatment, diets, and other cycling topics.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Electronic Mailing lists

[e-mail]  A mailing list for tandem bicycle enthusiasts.
    Suitable topics include questions and answers related to tandem
    componentry, riding technique, brands and equipment selection,
    prices, clubs, rides and other activities, cooperating on a section
    on tandems for the rec.bicycles.* FAQ, etc.  For more information
        send mail to "[e-mail]".

HPV list  The HPV list is for the discussion of issues related to the
      design, construction, and operation of human powered vehicles
      and closely related kin. (Hybrid  human/electric, for example.)

      For further information, send a mail message containing the
      following single line in the message, to [e-mail]:

      info hpv

===========================================================================
Rides
===========================================================================

Maps  (Jim Carson  [e-mail])

BikeCentennial maps are not free, but you can get them without joining.
To order stuff with Mastercard or Visa, you can call 1-800-933-1116 (24
hr).  Maps are currently (May 1991) $6.95 each to "non-members," $4.95
each to "members." There are also small discounts for sets of maps and
members in the continental US don't have to pay for surface shipping and
handling.

Scale of the maps is generally 1" = 4mi/6.4km.  Certain areas are more
detailed when necessary.  I like the maps because they have lots of
interesting features labeled (campgrounds, grocery stores, major
changes in elevation, historical info about the region,...), they're
printed on a water-resistant paper, and they fit nicely into a handlebar
bag map case.

As of May '91, there are two and a half transcontinental (W-E) routes
an east coast (N-S) route, a west coast route (N-S), and numerous routes
among the various parks in the western U.S. and Canada.  [I say "2 1/2
transcontinental routes" because the southern portion of the transcontinental
route from TX to FL is not in print though the maps are "done."]

Membership is $22/annually, and they have a lifetime membership available.

Members get copies of BikeCentennial's magazine, _BikeReport_, published 9
times annually, a list of tours run by BikeCentennial, and the annual
_The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_.  _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_ provides
*LOTS* of interesting information on touring and points of contact for
more information about cycling and touring all over the world.  (For
example, they have an arrangement with The Netherlands Service Center
for Tourism whereby you can purchase full-color, 21" x 38", 1:100k
scale, Dutch-language maps.)

BikeCentennial's address and phone:

    BikeCentennial
    [phone], [phone]
    PO Box 8308
    Missoula, MT 59807-9988

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Touring supplies  (Scott "gaspo" Gasparian  [e-mail])

    Recently, I asked the group: what do you bring with you on medium
trips? (medium being more than one nite, and less than a week).  I
received some excellent replies, a few great stories, and lots of things
that I never would have thought of. (at least not until I needed that
spare spoke that is).

Ok, for all of you who don't know what to bring with you on that
next medium trip...


FOOD:
    Here, just whatever you normally consume.  If you plan on
staying in a hotel/B&B, then obviously 1 day's worth is enough.
Standard things like power-bars and drink mixes should do the trick.
Since I'm not going to BFE, I have no idea what to pack for a real
"camp-out" type tour.  This subject is enough for a discussion in
itself, but I just eat what I want.

CLOTHING:
    Almost everybody suggested something different, rangin from hi-
tech bodysuits to cutoffs and T-shirts.  However, everybody agreed on the
indispensibleness (tm) of rain gear.  Specifically, light waterproof
pants and jacket are not only good for staying dry, but have a very high
warmth/weight ratio.
    A spare change of skivies, and a pair of dry socks were also
highly recomended.  A pair of jeans or a "smushable outfit" can come in
handy, but I usually smell so bad after a day of riding that anybody who is
talking to me doesn't care what I wear.  If it might be non-warm, a
watch-cap or other non-helmet type hat can help.

FIRST-AID:
    Outside of the standard band-aids/antiseptic-goop bit, sunscreen
and bug-away topped the lists.  Asprin or Ibuprofen and rolaids were
mentioned, but I guess thats a personal thing, just like...

TOILETRIES:
    I stick with: soap, toothbrush/paste, deodorant.  That covers
all I need, but everybody has different needs, and I'm not even gonna
touch the "personal hygeine" stuff.  A razor is handy too, it can help
keep that road-rash dressing from ripping all your remaining hair out.

MISC:
    I'll put the tent/pit stuff into this category.  Robyn Stewart
gave an excellent testamony to the uses of rope and tarps.  A piece of
rope stretched between two trees can keep the food above the
critter-level, and can also provide a rudimentary tent with the aid of
an old shower-curtain.  Again, there is a whole area of discussion here
on the pits and mattresses, but if it keeps you warm and dry, it works.


TOOLS:
    Basically, this could be split into two different classes, with
things like tire-kit being in the "fix it yourself" category, and other
stuff like a chain remover tool is in the  "how far will I be from
civilization" range.  This was what I really wanted to know about when I
posted my request, so a little more info than the first groups.

Most of this depends upon how much work _YOU_ do to your velo.  If
replacing spokes is trivial to you, then you already know what tools to
bring.  Also, wrenches and screwdrivers are very velo dependent: handy
sizes for a MTB might be useless for a nice racer, and vice-versa. Tools
that tune more than repair are also an individual call.  I always carry
a hex-wrench that fits my brake-shoe adjustment bolt, but never the larger
one that actually removes the entire caliper.

    pump
    pressure gauge
    flat kit
    wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
    hex(allen)-wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
    chain tool
    chain links
    tire levers (plastic)
    spoke wrench
    safety wire
    duct tape
    zip ties

SPARES:
    Again, these fall into "distance from civilization" categories.
For example, that nut that connects your front mudguard to the forks
is essential, but could be fixed with the safety wire until you find a
velo-shop/store that might have a replacement.  Then again, one little
nut is easy on space/weight, and it may be hard to get a replacement if
your velos measurements are non-standard.  If you have a hard-time
finding a replacement for that random part at your local store, bring
one with you.

    inner tubes
    tire-boots
    brake shoes
    light bulbs
    spokes (labeled if different, tied to the frame)
    nuts and bolts for rack/fenders/etc.
    tire (if you're _really_ out there)
    toe-clip strap
    shoe-laces
    cable (especially if yours are longer than normal).
    cable housing (for the shimano special shifter ones)

NIFTY IDEAS:
    Here are some of the better inside tips that I found both
humorous and usefull....

[e-mail] (Mike Johnston)
    A sock (to keep tools inside and for keeping grease off my hands
    during rear wheel flats)

[e-mail] (Steve Kromer)
    The most important article to take along on a long ride
    seems to be faith.

[e-mail] (chris rouch)
    15cm of old tyre

Robyn Stewart <[e-mail]>
    Enough money to get Greyhound home if something goes terribly wrong.

[e-mail]
    bungie cords - you never know when you might want to get that
    set of six beer mugs as a souvenir and transport it on the
    back of your bike.

[e-mail] (Catherine Anne Foulston)
    ZAP Sport Towel.  I think it is really useful because you can
    get it wet and it still dries you.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Taking a bike on Amtrak  (Carlos Martin  [e-mail])

The following article relates my own experience in taking a bike
as luggage on the Amtrak in the summer of 1992.  It is intended to
offer advice to those who might choose to do the same, and is not
intended to reflect the views or policies of Amtrak.  For reference,
I traveled from Trenton to Pittsburgh at the start of a tour.

Traveling with a bike on Amtrak can be problem-free if you take a few
precautions.  Amtrak handles bikes at stations that check in baggage.
(Smaller stations and some trains don't check baggage at all.)
There is a $5 baggage fee for bikes, and it includes a box.  Call
the station several days before your trip and notify them that you
will need a bicycle box.

The box they provided was big enough to accomodate my relatively
long-framed touring bike (Specialized Expedition) without taking off
either wheel, and with room to spare lengthwise.  You will, however,
have to remove the pedals (even clipless ones) and turn the handlebars
to fit the bike in the box.  Plan on putting only the bike in the box -
no helmet or panniers.  (You may want to check with Amtrak on this point -
they may not cover damages to the bike if you packed other stuff
in the box.)

Before leaving home for the station, loosen your pedals and stem
enough to make sure you won't need heavy-duty tools at the station.
Plan to arrive at the station one and a half hours before departure
time - Amtrak wants all checked baggage at least a half hour before
departure (they may tell you one hour).  Don't forget to keep your
tools handy.

At the station, go to the baggage room, get your box and some tape
from the attendant, remove the pedals, and loosen the stem bolt and
the bolt that holds the handlebars in the stem.  Hold the front
wheel between your feet as you turn the handlebars parallel to the
top tube.  Roll the bike into the box and seal the ends.
If everything goes smoothly, you can do the above packing in
ten minutes.  Now go have lunch before you get on the train
unless you want to take your chances with train food.

BTW, the trains are very roomy and comfortable, particularly if
you are accustomed to traveling in airline cattle coaches.
I would travel by Amtrak again in a similar situation.
(The usual disclaimer applies:  I have no connection to Amtrak,
other than being a taxpaying subsidizer and occasional user
of the rail system.)

===========================================================================
Racing
===========================================================================

Tour de France Jerseys  (Chris Murphy   [e-mail])

Chauner and Halstead (1990) in "The Tour de France Complete Book of Cycling"
explain:

YELLOW Jersey -- Overall leader, first awarded during the 1919 race (TdF
       started in 1903); yellow to match the paper used to print L'Auto
       (Automobile Cyclisme), a French newspaper about bike racing.

POLKADOT Jersey (White w/red dots) -- Best climber, determined by points
         scored by the first 3 to 15 riders finishing selected mountain
         stages (number of riders awarded points varies with the
         difficulty of the stage). First awarded 1933.

GREEN Jersey -- Points jersey, usually won by sprinter-types, with points
      given to the first 25 riders to finish each stage. First awarded 1953.

YELLOW Hats -- First place team, determined by combined elapsed times of the
       the team's top 3 riders.

In the event of a rider leading the race and also deserving one of the other
jerseys, the race leader wears yellow, and the 2nd place in the category wears
the category jersey.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Major Tour Winners 1947-1990  (Tim Smith [e-mail])

[Ed note:  I'm hoping Tim won't be too upset if I add to the list he posted.
I need some help filling in the last few years.]

Winners of the Big Three National Tours -- Since 1947:

    Tour de France        Giro d'Italia        Vuelta d'Espana
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
1947    Jean Robic (F)        Fausto Coppi (I)    E. van Dyck (B)
1948    Gino Bartali (I)    F. Magni (I)        B. Ruiz (E)
1949    Fausto Coppi (I)    F. Coppi        (not held)
1950    Ferdi Kubler (CH)    Hugo Koblet (CH)    E. Rodriguez (E)
1951    Hugo Koblet (CH)    F. Magni        (nh)
1952    Fausto Coppi        F. Coppi        (nh)
1953    Louison Bobet (F)    F. Coppi        (nh)
1954    Louison Bobet        C. Clerici (CH)        (nh)
1955    Louison Bobet        F. Magni        J. Dotto (F)
1956    Roger Walkowiak (F)    Charly Gaul (L)        A. Conterno (I)
1957    Jacques Anquetil (F)    Gastone Nencini (I)    J. Lorono (E)
1958    Charly Gaul (L)        E. Baldini (I)        Jean Stablinski (F)
1959    Federico Bahamontes (E)    Charly Gaul        A. Suarez (E)
1960    Gastone Nencini (I)    Jacques Anquetil (F)    F. de Mulder (B)
1961    Jacques Anquetil    A. Pambianco (I)    A. Soler (E)
1962    Jacques Anquetil    F. Balmamion (I)    Rudy Altig (D)
1963    Jacques Anquetil    F. Balmamion        J. Anquetil (F)
1964    Jacques Anquetil    Jacques Anquetil    Raymond Poulidor (F)
1965    Felice Gimondi (I)    V. Adorni (I)        R. Wolfshohl (D)
1966    Lucien Aimar (F)    Gianni Motta (I)    F. Gabica (E)
1967    Roger Pingeon (F)    Felice Gimondi (I)    J. Janssen (NDL)
1968    Jan Janssen (NDL)    Eddy Merckx (B)        Felice Gimondi (I)
1969    Eddy Merckx (B)        Felice Gimondi        Roger Pingeon (F)
1970    Eddy Merckx        Eddy Merckx        Luis Ocana (E)
1971    Eddy Merckx        Gosta Petersson (S)    F. Bracke (B)
1972    Eddy Merckx        Eddy Merckx        J-M Fuente (E)
1973    Luis Ocana (E)        Eddy Merckx        Eddy Merckx (B)
1974    Eddy Merckx        Eddy Merckx        J-M Fuente
1975    Bernard Thevenet (F)    F. Bertoglio (I)    Tamames (E)
1976    Lucien van Impe (B)    Felice Gimondi        J. Pesarrodona (E)
1977    Bernard Thevenet    Michel Pollentier (B)    Freddy Maertens (B)
1978    Bernard Hinault (F)    J. de Muynck (B)    Bernard Hinault (F)
1979    Bernard Hinault        Giuseppe Saronni (I)    Joop Zoetemelk (NDL)
1980    Joop Zoetemelk (NDL)    Bernard Hinault (F)    F. Ruperez (E)
1981    Bernard Hinault        Giovanni Battaglin (I)    Giovanni Battaglin (I)
1982    Bernard Hinault        Bernard Hinault        Marino Lejarreta (E)
1983    Laurent Fignon (F)    Giuseppe Saronni (I)    Bernard Hinault (F)
1984    Laurent Fignon        Francesco Moser (I)    Eric Caritoux (F)
1985    Bernard Hinault        Bernard Hinault        Pedro Delgado (E)
1986    Greg Lemond (USA)    Roberto Visentini (I)    Alvaro Pino (E)
1987    Stephen Roche (EIR)    Stephen Roche (EIR)    Luis Herrera (Col.)
1988    Pedro Delgado (E)    Andy Hampsten (USA)    Sean Kelly (EIR)
1989    Greg Lemond (USA)    Laurent Fignon (F)    Pedro Delgado (E)
1990    Greg Lemond (USA)    Guanni Bugno (I)    Marco Giovanetti (I)
1991    Miguel Indurain (E)    Franco Chioccioli (I)    Melchior Mauri (E)
1992    Miguel Indurain (E)     Miguel Indurain (E)     Alvaro Meija (E)
1993    Miguel Indirain (E)

The Tour started in 1903, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1940-1946.
The Giro started in 1909, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1941-1945.

Source: 1947-1982: "La Fabuleuse Histoire du Cyclisme" by Pierre Chany.
        1982-1988: my fallible memory. Would someone complete 1983 and
    1984, and correct any mistakes? Thanks.

One interesting observation: almost all the winners of the Tour were
big names in their time (yes, even Charly Gaul and Jean Robic.)

There were no same-year winners of the Tour and the Giro before 1949.
In fact, the first year a non-Italian won the Giro was 1950.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Rating the Tour de France Climbs  (Bruce Hildenbrand  [e-mail])

One of the most frequently asked questions is how do the organizers
determine the ratings for the climbs in the Tour de France(TIOOYK).
The Tour organizers use two criteria 1) the length and steepness of
the climb and 2) the position of the climb in the stage.

It is important to note several things before this discussion begins.
First, the organizers of the Tour have been very erratic in their
classifications of climbs.  The north side of the Col de la Madeleine
has flip-flopped between a Category 1 to an Hors Category climb,
even though it seems to be in the same position of a stage every
year.

Secondly, rating inflation, so rampant in other sports has raised
its ugly head here.  Climbs that used to be Category 2 are now
Category 1, even though, like the Madeleine, they occupy the same
position in a stage year after year.

Let's talk about the ratings.  I will give you my impressions
on what I think the criteria are for rating the climbs based on
having ridden over 75 of the rated climbs in the major European
tours.

Note that gradual climbs do not receive grades.  It has been my
observation that about a 4% grade is necessary for a climb to get
rated.  Also, a climb must gain at least 100m for it to be rated.

Category 4 - the lowest category, climbs of 300-1000 feet(100-300m).

Category 3 - climbs of 1000-2000 feet(300-600m).

Category 2 - climbs of 2000-3500 ft.(600-1100m)

Category 1 - climbs of 3500-5000ft(1100-1500m)

Hors Category - the hardest, climbs of 5000ft+(1500m+)

Steepness also plays a factor in the rating.  Most of the big climbs
in the Alps average 7-8% where the big climbs in the Pyrenees average
8-9%.

Please remember that I am giving very, very rough guidelines and
that there are exceptions to every rule.  For example, L'Alpe D'Huez
climbs 3700ft(1200m), but is an Hors Category climb.  This is because
it usually comes at the end of a very tough stage and the climb itself
is unusually steep(~9%) by Alpine standards.

More confusing is the Col de Borderes, a mere 1000ft(300m) climb outside
of Arrens in the Pyrenees mountains.  I have seen it rated anywhere from
a Category 3 to a Category 1!!!  This is most likely due again, to its
placement on the stage.  The Category 3  rating came when it was near
the beginning of a stage where its Category 1 rating came when it was
near the end.

Flat or downhill sections can also affect a climb's rating.  Such
sections offer a rest to the weary and can reduce the difficulty
of the climb considerably.  This may be one of the reasons that
the aforementioned Col de la Madeleine, which has a 1 mile downhill/
flat section at mid-height, flip-flops in its rating.

I am often asked how climbs in the United States compare to those in
Europe.  Most of the US climbs are either short, but steep enough by
European standards(6-8% grade) to fall into the Category 3 or possibly 2,
or the climbs gain enough altitude, but are too long(they average <5%)
so again they would fail to break the Category 1 barrier and end up
most likely a Category 2 or 3.

Fear not, there are exceptions.  Most notable to Californains is
the south side of Palomar Mountain which from Poma Valley climbs
4200' in 11 miles, a true category 1 ascent.

A popular Northern California climb, Mount Hamilton, is similar to
Palomar Mountain but, fails to be a Category 1 climb because of
two offending downhill section on the ascent.

For Coloradoans, you can thank the ski industry for creating long,
but relatively gradual climbs that rarely exceed 5% for any substantial
length(5+ miles).  I never had to use anything bigger than a 42x23
on any climb in Colorado, regardless of altitude.  Gear ratios of
39x24 or 26 are commonplace in the Alps and Pyrenees and give a very
telling indication as to the difficulty of European climbs.

One potential category 1 climb for Coloradoans may be the 4000 ft.
climb in about 15 miles from Ouray to the top of Red Mountain Pass.

Also, remember we are rating only paved(i.e. asphalt) roads.  Dirt roads
vary considerably in their layout, condition and maintenance because there
really are no guidelines for their construction.  This makes it difficult
to compare these climbs and inappropriate to lump them with paved roads.

One last note.  I think it is inappropriate to compare the ascents of
climbs by the European pros with the efforts of us mere mortals.
I have said this time and time again and I will repeat it now.  It
is very, very hard for the average person to comprehend just how
fast the pros climb the big passes.  Pace makes all the difference.
Riding a climb is very different than racing it.

Bruce

===========================================================================
Social
===========================================================================

Bicycling in America  (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])

(or How to survive on a bicycle)

In America, bicycling appears to be an unacceptable activity for
adults.  It is viewed as a pastime reserved for children (people who
are not old enough to drive cars).  Adults who sense that they are
violating this stricture, excuse their bicycling by representing it as
the pursuit of physical fitness.  They refer to their bicycling as
training rides.  Rarely do you hear a cyclist say "we were bicycling"
but rather "we were on a training ride".  Certainly most of these
people never race although one might assume, by implication, that
their other rides are races.  Some also refer to themselves as serious
cyclists, a term used to describe those who, typically, keep track of
pedaling cadence and other bicycling statistics, thereby giving proof
that they are not engaged in child's play.

In contrast, Europeans seem able to accept bicycling as a proper
activity for all ages.  That is to say, motorists do not treat
bicyclists with apartheid and bicyclists do not feel the need to
justify their pursuit as anything other than bicycling, for whatever
reason.  In Europe cadence on speedometers is an un-marketable
function for unexplained reasons, however, one could imagine that for
the average cyclist it is a useless statistic, except for those on
"training rides".

With this perception of bicycling in America, non cyclists and some
occasional cyclists are offended by others who bicycle on public roads
in the presence of automobile traffic.  "Get the f#%k off the road!"
and similar epithets are heard from drivers, some of whose cars are
equipped with bike racks.  It is similar to gay bashing; by expressing
public outrage they demonstrate abhorrence of unacceptable behavior.
The same is true of bicyclists who deride others in public for not
wearing a helmet.  Aggressive self righteousness is probably a fitting
description.

Another motive behind such behavior may be a sense of dissatisfaction
with ones life.  Anyone who is perceived as having fun, or at least
more fun than the subject, needs to be brought down a notch.
Psychologists who have interviewed youths that go "wilding" have
gotten responses to the effect that "my life is terrible and I can't
stand people who are having fun".  So these youths attack others and
beat them bloody.  In a manner that may not make sense to others, they
bring their victims down a notch to achieve parity.

There is little doubt that bicycling has its hazards.  You can fall by
running into a pothole or an obstacle, by riding into a grating, or
falling on loose gravel or a slick manhole cover.  There are enough
hazards without the threat of being run down by a car.  However, the
whole sport loses its appeal when motorists, who believe that adult
bicycling is offensive, actively engage in making it a deadly
endeavor.

The scenario:

In a typical encounter a driver says to his passenger "You see that
guy on the bicycle?  That's a dangerous place to ride." while slicing
within inches of the cyclist.  The passenger is truly impressed with
the danger of bicycling, especially in the presence of this driver.

I don't understand how drivers justify such behavior but I think I
know what is going on.

Examples:

o  The buzz and swerve routine:

A driver slices dangerously close even though there is no opposing
traffic.  Then he drifts to the edge of the pavement to make clear how
far he went out of his way for the cyclist.  The desired path was even
nearer the road shoulder than at the passing point.  The buzz and
swerve is executed equally well consciously and subconsciously.

o  Center court, extra point:

The car, on a visibly empty stretch of road, travels perfectly
centered between the median and edge stripes, even when this requires
passing within inches of a cyclist.  It appears that the driver is
awarding himself points for not flinching when passing cyclists and
extra points for proximity.  In the event of a collision it is, of
course, the cyclist who swerved unexpectedly.  The precision with
which the driver executes this maneuver, in spite of the danger, makes
the center court game conspicuous.  People generally don't drive
exactly centered in a lane, especially when there is an obstacle.

o  Honk and slice:

The buzz and swerve or center court routine can be enhanced by honking
a single one second blast.  This is usually done at a far greater
distance than a sincere warning toot; about 200 yards works best.
This is a great crutch for the driver who subsequently collides with
the cyclist.  "But I warned him!"

o  The trajectory intercept:

A car is traveling on a road that crosses the cyclists path at right
angles.  The car and bike are equally distant from the intersection
but at different speeds.  With skill, the driver of the car can slow
down at a rate that lets him arrive at the intersection at precisely
the same time as the cyclist.  The bicyclist who has a stop sign may
now come to a complete stop and wait for the driver who is only
looking out for the cyclist's safety.  If the cyclist doesn't stop,
the driver honks and yells something about breaking the law.

Extra points are gained by offering the right of way to the cyclist,
in spite of moving traffic in the adjacent lanes.

o  The contrived hindrance:

A driver refuses to pass a cyclist on a two lane road until the
passenger asks how much longer they must follow this bicyclist, or
until the following cars begin to honk.  Then, regardless of
visibility or oncoming traffic, an inopportune pass is executed after
which each of following drivers makes it clear when passing that it
was the cyclist who was responsible for the near collision.

o The rear-ender:

While riding down a mountain road, the cyclist catches up with a car
that notices his rapid approach.  If an oncoming car approaches the
driver slows down, obviously for safety sake, and then suddenly slams
on the brakes when there is no place for the cyclist to go.  Bicycles
cannot stop as fast as cars since cars can safely skid the front
wheels but bicycles can't.  This game is the more dangerous variation
of speeding up every time the cyclist tries to pass but to drive as
slowly as possible everywhere else.

One explanation for these maneuvers is that the driver recalls that
riding in the mountains was always too hard and riding down hill was
scary.  This cyclist can't do what I couldn't do and I'll show him a
thing or two.  Thus the driver proves to himself that not riding in
the hills was for safety's sake, it had nothing to do with physical
ability.  It fits into the " I'll teach that smartass a lesson.  There
is little risk for the car because in a rear-end collision the vehicle
behind is, with few exceptions, found at fault.

So why does all this go on and on?

It is not as though they are all hostile drivers; some are just
frustrated drivers.  They may still be getting even for some bicycle
accident they had in their youth and don't want others to get off any
easier.  Some are angry at having to spend the time behind the wheel
while other "irresponsible adults" are playing on their bicycles.  I
believe the meanest ones are insecure people who don't feel as though
they are accomplishing what they expect of themselves and don't like
to see others have it any better.  Many drivers believe that the only
part of the road to which a bicyclist is entitled is the road
shoulder, unless it occurs to the driver to use that part too.

A bike rack on a car may lead you to believe that the driver has a pro
bicycle attitude.  Some people use bike racks to transport family
bicycles to a park where they can be ridden safely without venturing
onto dangerous roads; roads that are meant for cars.  Among these
people are some of the strongest opponents of general bicycling.  They
take refuge in the belief that, if they should run you down while
playing center court, it would prove that you should bicycle as they
do, and not get in the way of cars.

What to do?  Don't fuel the flames.  Don't return the rudeness that is
dished out.  Take legal action where appropriate (and possible).
Don't posture in traffic drawing attention to some undefined
superiority to people who sit in cars.  Don't balance on your bike or
ride in circles in front of cars waiting at a red light.  Don't make
moves in traffic that are either discourteous, or at best, awkward but
legal.  If you hear loud knobby tires coming, believe it!  That guy in
the extra tall pickup truck with the all terrain tires, dual roll bars
and multiple searchlights is not a friend of yours coming close to say
hello.  Give him room.

===========================================================================
Marketplace
===========================================================================

Bike Trailers

[Ed note:  The posting I saved on bike trailers is over 145k bytes, so
if you want a copy see the section on "Archives".]

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

One Less Car T-Shirts  (Alayne McGregor  [e-mail])
                       (Ed Ravin  panix![e-mail])

The T-shirts are produced by Transportation Alternatives, a New York
City bicycle activist group. They're 100% cotton, have the TA logo
on the front, and ONE LESS CAR on the back.  Call TA for colors and
sizes currently in stock.  They're US$15 each.  No refunds or
exchanges.  Allow 6 weeks for delivery.  For people who have to
drive but feel guilty about it, they also have "I'm Polluting the
Atmosphere" bumper stickers at 3 for $5.

Send orders to:

Transportation Alternatives
92 Saint Marks Place
New York, NY 10009
USA
attn: One Less Car

I happen to have one of these shirts in my closet right now. Causes lots
of comments when my covivant and I ride our tandem with both us wearing
our shirts.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Panniers and Racks  (Sharon Pedersen  [e-mail])

This is a condensed version of a longer article on panniers, low-rider
racks, loading and generators.    --Sharon   [e-mail]

                 --PANNIERS--
Price--cheaper may not be better, if they fall apart.  Commuting to
school entails stuffing sharp-cornered books into them thus making
sturdiness as important here as for touring.

Cut--an angled cut may make those books not fit so well.

Pockets--convenient for organization, but cuts down on versatile use
of space.  You can use stuff sacks for organization instead of pockets.
One big and one small pocket on each pannier is plenty.

Fastening--lots of options:  bungees and hooks, or fixed placement
hooks, or straps with buckles or cams.  Bungees and hooks have been
just fine in my own road experience, but for off-road riding, you will
want more security.  However, don't get a system with so many
attachments that you can't stand to take the panniers on/off.

Brands--the following is a by no means exhaustive list, with
telegraphic comments made in 1988.  Check local stores since features
may have changed since then.
  Eclipse--(no comment);  Kirtland--tourers like them;
  MPacks--panniers made by an actual bike tourer, Mike Center, in
    Santa Rosa, CA, [phone];
  Maddens--made in Boulder, "superior construction at better than
    average cost" yeah!  (I love mine, write for more glowing testimonials);
  Performance--low-cost, non-spring attachment;  Rhode Gear--expensive;
  Tailwind--aerodynamic, rigid attachment.

             --LOW-RIDER RACKS--
  Some manufacturers: Bruce Gordon, Blackburn, Vetta, Voyager.  The
Bruce Gordons are more expensive (~$70 in 1988) but are designed with
clearance for the quick-release skewer so you don't have to pry them
apart to take the front wheel off.

                --REAR RACKS--
  (No comment in the original article;  Blackburns seem to be the
standard and durable enough.)

                 --LOADING--
  Balance the load side-to-side and, if possible, fore-and-aft.
Keep heavier items low and towards the bottom bracket.  Rider, bike
and luggage together should have 55-60% of weight on rear wheel;
remainder on front.  Bike with front low-riders is quite stable.

                --GENERATORS--
  The usual location on the left seat-stay interferes with panniers.
Mount the generator on the right seat-stay facing the other way, and
it will work fine, despite rotating "backwards."  Or go with a
generator under the bottom bracket, which will have the advantage of
putting the wear on the tread rather than the sidewall of the tire.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Clothing materials  (Jim Carson  [e-mail])

[Ed note: From a summary Jim posted]

Polarlite
  Fluffy, fleecy stuff also called Polarplus and Synchilla.  Comfortable.
  Incredibly warm, especially under something that breaks the wind.
  Doesn't wick moisture out very well.  Breathes very well.

Supplex (nylon)
  Comfortable.  It is breathable and water repellent (but NOT water proof).
  Seems to absorb a small amount of water if it is really getting drenched

Merino (wool)
  From a "breed of fine-wooled white sheep originating in Spain and producing
  a heavy fleece of exceptional quality."  I guess you could treat this as
  normal 100% wool.

Thermax
  An improvement on Polypro.  The big advantage is heat resistance so
  you can put it in the dryer.  Balance that against the extra cost.

CoolMax
  This stuff seems more like a plastic bag than the revolutionary wicking
  material it is advertised as.

Dacron
  Trademark name for Dupont polyester.  Woven fabric made from dacron is
  similar to nylon ripstop or taffeta, but not as stretchy.  Many of the
  better clothing insulations are made from dacron.  They are usually refered
  to by more specific trademark names, like quallofil, hollofil, polarguard,
  and dacron-88.

Lycra
  Used for its stretch, mostly a warm weather (>65 degrees) thing.

GoreTex
  A teflon based membrane with microscopic holes.  Gortex's claim to
  fame is that it will let water vapor (from perspiration) through, but
  not liquid water (rain).  It blocks wind fairly well too.  The
  membrane is delicate, so it always comes laminated between 2 layers of
  other material.  It does not breathe enough.  There are less expensive
  alternatives.

Polypropylene
  Does not wick very well.  Can be uncomfortable.  Troublesome to
  care for (e.g. can pill badly)  Will keep you fairly warm if soaked.
  Not very wind resistant.  Melts in the dryer.

Capilene
  Wicks moisture away.  Very comfortable.  Comes in different weights
  for more/less warmth.  [lots of favorable things about it... only
  really unfavorable thing is the co$t]

60/40 cloth -
  This is a cloth with nylon threads running one direction, cotton in
  the other. It was the standard wind parka material before Goretex came
  along, and is considerably less expensive.  Good wind resistance,
  fairly breathable.  Somewhat water resistant, especially if you spray
  it with Scotchguard, but won't hold up to a heavy rain.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Seats

Seats are a very personal thing, for obvious reasons.  There are several
types of seats:

Leather
  Seats like the Brooks models.  Usually used by hard-core riders.  Requires
  breaking in before it's really comfortable.

Padded
  The usual bike seat, sometimes refered to as "anatomic".  Has padding
  where your "sit bones" (bottom of pelvis) supposed to rest.

Gel
  Like the padded seats, except they have a gel (e.g. Spenco Gel) in them
  for additional padding.  Reportedly, the gel can harden and/or shift,
  making the seat uncomfortable.

There are several types of seat pads (gel filled, containing an air bladder,
etc) that can be fitted over the seat to make it more comfortable.

If you are experiencing pain in delicate areas (especially you women readers)
you should make sure your seat is adjusted correctly (see the section on
seat adjustment).  Women may need a women's type seat, which is wider in
the back (women's sit bones are farther apart than men's).  Most pain
can be eliminated by a correctly adjusted seat, using a women's seat,
and riding so your body becomes used to it.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Women's Saddles  (Pamela Blalock  [e-mail])

Many women who cycle have experienced frustration with trying to find
a comfortable saddle. It is amazing how many times I have found myself
standing around after a ride talking with other women about saddles.
This article came from those discussions and an informal survey of
woman's saddle preferences. This is a dynamic article and changes on
occassion, so if you have comments please contact me
([e-mail]) and I will incorporate your comments.

Just as women are different from men, we are also different from each
other.  Since (fortunately) there is no mold into which we were all
poured, what works for one woman may not work for another.

While this is an article on women's saddles, since so many other
things can contribute to potential saddle pain, it will also address
some of these issues as well.

First, insure that your bike fits properly.  Many women end up with
overly padded shorts and a big fat thickly padded saddle instead of
with a bike that fits. No saddle will be comfortable if the bike is
too big, or set up incorrectly. It is important to find someone who
knows about fit and specifically about women's fit and get the bike
set up properly before making other changes. It isn't always easy to
find someone willing to take the time, but when you find a shop that
will, give them lots of business and send your friends there!  In
addition to being more comfortable, a bike that really fits will also
handle better than one that is improperly sized.

Most production bikes are built proportionally for the average man.
Using the old guidelines of sizing a bike by straddling the top tube
may leave you a bike with a top tube that is too long. It is not
necessary to run out and buy a new bike right away if the top tube on
your current bike is too long. Using a shorter stem on a this bike may
give you a more comfortable reach. Very short stems, less than 40 mm,
are available, but may have to be special ordered.

Some shops use a fitting system called the Fit Kit. The numbers
generated from the Fit Kit are just guidelines and may not work for
everybody, especially women. It is important to RIDE your bike and
possibly make more adjustments to achieve a perfect fit. Others may
use an infinitely adjustable stationary bike. One has been developed
by Ben Serotta to help choose the perfect size bike - whether it is a
Serotta or not. Adjustable stems are available to help you and the
shop pick a perfect length stem the first time. Unless your current
bike is a really, really poor fit, you should be able to make a few
relatively inexpensive changes to improve the fit.  Then when
upgrading or buying a new bike, use what you have learned to buy a
bike that fits better.

One option is to simply select a bike with a shorter seat tube,
combined with a longer seatpost, to get a shorter top tube length.
This will work for taller women, but there is a limit of how short you
can make a top tube with two 700C wheels.  Several manufacturers have
started building bikes proportionally sized for women to specifically
address our needs.  For small women, these bikes may have a smaller
front wheel to get the shorter top tube, but not all women's bikes
have a 24" front wheel. Some have two 26" or 700C wheels, depending on
size and geometry.  In addition to a shorter top tube, women's bikes
may also have smaller brake levers, narrower handlebars, shorter
cranks and wider saddles.  Georgena Terry was the pioneer in this
area, but many other manufacturers now build women's bikes. They may
cost a little more than a comparably equipped man's bike, due to
higher production costs for fewer number of parts.  But, I believe
that the extra initial cost to get a properly fit bike will pay off in
the long run, since you will either stop riding an uncomfortable or
poorly fitting bike, or you will eventually replace the poorly fitting
parts at additional cost. Of course, as I said earlier, we are all
different and many women may not need any special adjustments made to
their non-custom off-the-shelf bikes.

Now to saddles. A woman's hip bones tend to be set farther apart than
a man's.  (This is a design feature to help with childbirth!)  Every
woman is different, and there are some women out there with narrower
hip bones. To determine where you sit bones are, sit on a low curb.
Sorry, a chair won't do! When you sit on the curb, you will ba able to
feel your sit bones. This is what you want supported by your bike
saddle. Avocet used to (and maybe still does) run a great ad showing a
hip bone sitting on a saddle.  With a saddle that's too narrow, a
woman may find herself straddling it, or slipping off of one side and
pinching nerves - which may eventually cause the legs or feet to go
numb. Of course, a saddle that's too wide may also cause problems.

A saddle that's slightly wider in the back (than the man's saddle that
comes on most stock bikes) may offer better support for the sit bones.
I have quite a few retired women's saddles with depressed gel
indicating exactly where I my bones are, which for me is close to the
edge. Actually, looking at your old saddle will tell you a lot about
where you do and do not need support! It's important to try out
several different saddles to find one that fits.  Remember, we are all
different. Unfortunately no one manufacturer makes different sized
women's saddles - but the widths do vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer - so for example, if the Terry is too wide or too narrow,
try the Vetta or Avocet or some other brand. Ask your local dealer to
let you put your bike on a trainer in the shop and try sitting on and
riding a few of his saddles. Saddles are fairly easy to change and a
good shop should be willing to let you try this.

There are several women's saddles on the market, many of which are
made with some form of gel. I have used (and retired) several of these
with no complaints. The gel does compress after a while (regardless of
sex), so these saddles do have to be replaced (for me it's every
10,000 miles).

Many women who responded to my survey said that they have the nose of
their saddle tilted slightly forward to alleviate pressure on the soft
tissue. A large variety of saddles were used with this method
including the Brooks leather. One rider pointed out that having a
seatpost with infinitely adjustable angles, like the American Classic,
will help one to find the perfect angle. With the rachet type
adjustment of most, she was never able to get the angle quite right.

One problem with having the saddle tilted too far forward is that you
may end up with two much weight/pressure on your wrists and hands. The
result is numb hands and pain in the lower back.

In John Forester's "Effective Cycling" book, he suggests getting a
cheap plastic saddle and carving out a depression in the area where
the labia would normally rest.  This would place the weight on the sit
bones where it belongs, and remove it from the genital area, where it
does not.

Two new saddles were introduced recently which specifically address
this issue, the Terry Women's and the Miyata Pavea. Both are shorter
and wider than the typical man's saddle and both have a hole in the
nose to suspend soft tissue. These saddles should be comfortable when
level. The Miyata leaves the hole exposed, while the Terry is covered
in an open-cell low-density foam.

I have used both the Terry and the Miyata. I've received lots of
positive comments from women (and men) about their experiences with
these saddles.  The men seem to notice the difference more after the
ride later in the evening :) :) :)

I recently completed a 750 mile ride on the back of a tandem in 85.5
hours. That's a lot of time on a saddle. I'd been using the Terry for
over 6 months and it worked great on everything up to 200 miles. But
400 miles into the trip, I was ready to rip the foam out of the hole.
Once the swelling started, the presence of the foam became unbearable.
Even though there was no plastic shell underneath, there was still
something! I asked our crew person to see if he could find the Miyata
saddle. It's often quite difficult to find women's products, and I was
almost shocked when he showed up 20 minutes later with this wonderful
saddle with an exposed hole. He had found the Miyata. The difference
was immediately noticeable. I probably would have finished the ride
without it, but I wouldn't have been in a good mood for days! The
Miyata is a little harder under the sit bones than the Terry, but
that's not where I was experiencing pain.  Of course the saddle is
different looking and draws lots of comments and sexual innuendos, but
it saved my ride.  My male tandem partner is now looking into making a
similar type modification to his saddle before our next really long
event.

Not all women like the wider saddles. Some women find all women's
saddles too wide.  Several women responded to the survey saying they
prefer a man's saddle. Some of these even felt they had wide hip
bones.  For those who use a narrow saddle, finding one that was flat
on top seemed to help with the above mentioned problems.  Others who
liked various women's saddles still found them a little thick in the
middle, even if they were the right width in the back. Terry has
announced a racing version of their saddle, which has a narrower nose.
This saddle was supposed to be available in June, 1992, but a
manufacturing problem has delayed its delivery to customers. I will
update this article as soon as I get to test ride one. Someday, maybe
we will see women's saddles in various widths. We must create the
demand though.

Other suggestions for improved saddle comfort including trying
different shorts. Shorts that bunch up in front may cause discomfort.
Shorts fit differently in and out of the saddle, so look down
while you are on the bike. Sprinkling powder in the shorts may help
keep you dry and saddle sore free on a warm day. A little vasoline may
also help with prevention or treatment of saddles sores.

I can't stress enough that each woman is different and no one saddle
is perfect for all of us. Just because a local or national racer, or
your friend, or *Pamela* uses a particular type of saddle doesn't mean
that it will work for you. Don't let anyone intimidate you into riding
something that is uncomfortable, or changing the angle of your saddle
because it's different. Use the setup that's most comfortable for you.

Among the saddles recommended by respondents were
Terry Women's
Miyata Pavea
WaveFlo
Avocet Women's Racing saddle
Viscount saddle
San Marco Regal
women's Selle Italia Turbo
Brook's B-17
Brook's Pro

(Of course some women hated saddles that others raved about! Did I
mention that we are all DIFFERENT)

Specialty women's products are available through The Womyn's Wheel (see
the Mail Order Addresses section for more info), or hopefully at your local
bike shop - just keep asking them!!

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Women's Bikes  (Lynn Karamanos [e-mail])

Here's a summary of the info I received on whether or not to
purchase a Terry bike.

1.) First, find a good bike shop, one that will try to find a bike
that fits you, not just sell you what they have in stock.

2.) Ride many different bikes to see what's best for you.  You may be
able to find other bikes that fit just as well as a Terry once
you've made some adjustments/replacements (stem, crank arms, etc.).

3.) If you can't find any other bike to fit you, then a Terry's
worth the extra money.

4.) Except for about two people who sent me email, everyone who's
ridden a Terry has loved it.  Even those two people said they knew
others who loved Terry bikes.  Bottom line:  the fit depends on your
build. Women with long legs/short torso seem to be the ones who like
them, not necessarily just short women.

5.) Also a few people mentioned that there are other road bikes that
are specifically "designed for women" or that fit women well.  The
names mentioned: Fuji, Miyata, Bridgestone, Specialized (Sirrus).
Also, someone mentioned that the same production line in Japan that
makes Terry "proportioned" bikes also makes them under other labels.
(Also one mountain bike was named, Mongoose Hilltopper, and two
hybred bikes, Univega Via Activa and Giant Inova.)

6.) Something to keep in mind if you buy a Terry with a small front
wheel... replacement tubes and tires for smaller wheels could be
more difficult to find and/or more expensive.

7.) In case you're looking at older model Terry's, a few people
mentioned that until a couple years ago, some Terry bikes were
$200-$300 less than they are now.

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Bike Rentals   (Various people)

Lincoln Guide Service
Lincoln Center
Lincoln, MA
[phone]
  Rents mountain, road, kids bikes, and trailers.  About 11 miles west of
  Boston, within sight of Lincoln Center commuter rail stop.


Team Bicycle Rentals
508 Main
Huntington Beach, CA
[phone]
  12spd $29/day, MTB $29/day, Santana tandem $69

Gregg's Greenlake
Seattle, WA


Second Gear
Seattle, WA


New York City Area:
All phone numbers are area code (212).

A West Side Bicycle Store -- 231 W 96th St -- 663 7531
Eddie's Bicycles Shop -- 490 Amsterdam Ave -- 580 2011
Country Cycling Tours -- 140 W 83rd St -- 874 5151
AAA Central Park Bicycle Rentals -- 72nd St/ Central Pk Boathouse -- 861 4137
Midtown Bicycles -- 360 W 47th St -- 581 4500
Sixth Avenue Bicycles -- 546 Avenue of the Americas -- 255 5100
Metro Bicycle -- 1311 Lexington Ave -- 427 4450
Larry and Jeff's Bicycles Plus -- 204 E 85th St -- 794 2201
Gene's 79th Street Discounted Bicycles -- 242 E 79th St -- 249 9218
Peddle Pusher Bicycle Shop -- 1306 2nd Ave -- 288 5594
A Bicycle Discount House -- 332 E 14th St -- 228 4344
City Cycles -- 659 Broadway -- 254 4457

San Francisco

Park Cyclery -- 1865 Haight street (at Stanyan) -- 751-RENT
Start to Finish -- 599 2nd Street at Brannan -- 861-4004

Marin County, CA

Caesars Cyclery -- 29 San Anselmo Ave San Anselmo -- 258-9920
Far-go bike Shop -- 194 Northgate #1 Shopping Center San Rafael -- 472-0253
Ken's Bike and Sport -- 94 Main Street (Downtown Tiburon) -- 435-1683
Wheel Escapes -- 1000 Magnolia Ave Larkspur -- 461-6903


Austing, TX area

[all stores rent ONLY mountain bikes]
Bicycle Sport Shop -- 1426 Toomey Road -- [phone]
University Schwinn -- 2901 N. Lamar Blvd -- [phone]
University Schwinn -- 1542 W. Anderson Ln -- [phone]
Velotex Inc -- 908-B W 12th St -- [phone]